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Rocky Mountain High in Aspen, Colorado
A WorldWeb.com feature travel article.
Home > United States > Colorado > Northern Rockies > Aspen > Features & Reviews > Town & City Reviews > Editorial
 
Rocky Mountain High in Aspen, Colorado
from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide

Town of Aspen
Snow Falls on Downtown Aspen 1
Aspen is a life to live
See how much there is to give
See how strongly you believe
See how much you may receive
—John Denver; Aspenglow

The glitz, the glamor and a rock'n good time. These days, it's what Aspen, Colorado is all about. Frequented by the rich, the famous and plenty of hardcore skiers and boarders, this mountain village seems to convey an air of luxury around every corner. It should be noted, however, that things have not always been this glamorous. Before the five-star hotels, elegant restaurants and trendy shops there was an industrious mining city, near-total economic collapse and decades of quiet agricultural subsistence. In fact, it wasn't until well after World War II that Aspen began to resemble its current image.

HISTORY

Towards the end of the 19th Century, Aspen was off to a strong start. It had become the most productive silver mine in America, had a population of 12,000 and a community with banks, a hospital, two theaters and an opera house. Unfortunately, those days were short-lived and by 1893, an economic collapse sent the whole town into a tailspin. Although the mining industry partly revived afterwards, things were never the same and by 1930, only 705 residents remained. The town quietly slipped into anonymity.

Ashcroft Ghost Town, Aspen
39 Degrees at the Sky Hotel 2
Sixteen years later, the Aspen Skiing Company was founded. Its goal: transforming a then quiet village into a sort of Utopian community and a mecca of skiing. To a certain extent they were successful. By the time the 1960s rolled around, Aspen had not only developed into a world-class ski resort but into a haven for off-beat artists and misfits. Its wild character attracted icons such as American folk musician John Denver and American journalist Hunter S. Thompson—who, in 1970, made a bizarre run for sheriff of Pitkin County, Colorado and was only narrowly defeated.

In the decades since, sky high property values may have driven away the beat culture of the 1970s and replaced it with a playground for movie stars and millionaires but much of Aspen's wild spirit still remains. With a focus on community, the old guard residents and the new visionaries have struck a balance between culture and recreation that sees historic buildings housing modern stores and high publicity events mixed with the town's traditional values.

LOCATION AND TRANSPORTATION

Maroon Bells, Aspen
The Spectacular Maroon Bells 3
Located high in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, Aspen sits 200 mi (321 km) southwest of Denver and 130 mi (209 km) east of Grand Junction. It is a secluded town set along the twists and turns of Colorado Highway 82. During the summer months, travelers can approach from Carbondale in the west or over Independence Pass in the east. However, due to extreme winter conditions, Independence Pass is normally closed from early November through May.

Just 3 mi (5 km) north of town, the Aspen-Pitkin Country Airport, or Sardy Field, acts as Colorado's third busiest airport. Along with its constant flow of corporate airplanes and private jets, regular commercial flights are provided by United Airlines, America West and Northwest.

Roaring Fork Transportation Authority provides bus service within Aspen and connects the surrounding communities of Snowmass Village, Basalt, Carbondale, Glenwood Springs and Rifle. The local bus service within Aspen, and out to Sardy Field, is free of charge.

Climate

In the valley bottoms, summer high temperatures reach 85°F (29°C), with cool evenings that often dip below 30°F (-1°C). Winter lows can drop to -30°F (-34°C) while daytime temperatures typically hover around 20°F (-7°C). Humidity is quite low throughout the year but at the higher elevations, afternoon summer thunderstorms are common and snow is possible year-round.

ATTRACTIONS

Though world renowned for its four fantastic ski hills, huge runs and champagne powder, Aspen is not only for those who ski. Numerous year-round activities, combined with an extensive mix of arts programs, cultural events, and a cosmopolitan nightlife, make this trendy village a busy place no matter the season.

Summertime Adventure

Aspen's landscape is always dominated by the Rocky Mountains and all the adventures they hold. During the summer, activities in the area range from parasailing, climbing and golf to mountain biking, whitewater rafting and horse riding. A surrounding network of trails appeals to the novice and expert alike while Maroon Bells, one of the most photographed mountains in America, draws in nature lovers from every corner of the nation. Then there is the Silver Queen Gondola. Silently, it glides above tall stands of pine as it ascends to the mountain summit, taking advantage of the surrounding vistas with floor-to-ceiling windows. Summertime visitors should be aware though, the Silver Queen shuts down for inspection in mid-September.

Aspen X Games
Big Air at the X Games 4

A Place for Festivals

A festive city, Aspen kicks off each year with Wintersköl, an annual toast to winter and the city's wild character. Then, after a slew of ski competitions and music concerts, the warmer weather of June ushers in the Food and Wine Classic. Following close behind, the Aspen Music Festival has not skipped a beat since 1949 and to this day it brings together the world's most accomplished and promising musicians to teach, learn and perform.

At the Core

Although Aspen is a small town, it has created a giant reputation for itself, and it's easy to see how. The layout is simple: fine dining, trendy boutiques, chic clubs and cool pubs are spread amongst its Downtown district. Numerous hotels, condos and lodges are centered around the West End, and, across the Roaring Fork River, the East End contains a quiet residential neighborhood. This compact design makes Aspen very accessible and visitors who take the time to wander, will find it to be much more than a typical resort town.

Art Central
As it continues to place a strong emphasis on the arts, Aspen has evolved into a world-recognized contemporary art venue—the Aspen Writers' Foundation along with the Aspen Art Museum and the Wheeler Opera House will attest to that. For a town its size, there are an amazing number of galleries dotting these streets, giving them an original style and a certain flair. Likewise, film is a popular medium in Aspen and not only because its rife of movie stars. Aspen Film, an independent film organization, has been fostering an appreciation for movie making since 1979 with programs such as the Aspen Filmfest, Aspen Academy Screenings and the Aspen Shortsfest.

Going Out
What’s more, Aspen's world of international restaurants is likely to satiate the hungriest of appetites as the food industry's biggest names contribute to this city's highly competitive restaurant scene. After dinner, the star-studded nightlife gets into gear, providing an ideal setting for those that want to see and be seen and following a day on the hill, locals and visitors alike flock to the bars for an aprés-ski special.

Shopping
Hints of the past are tastefully tucked into this sophisticated city, making it common to see Italian-crafted shoes and beauty salons mingle with Black Forest antiques and authentic western boutiques. Shoppers hardly notice however, as they soar from the fashions of Gorsuch to the kids-sized equipment of Short Sport and onto the latest adventure gear at Ute Mountaineer.

Boomtown to Ghost Town

For a glimpse into the region's rich mining history, a trip to the nearby ghost towns of Ashcroft and Independence presents travelers with a historic diversion as well as a scenic outing. In good weather conditions, continue past Independence and ascend to the Independence Pass where crisp mountain air and dramatic views await.

Ski Aspen
Skiing Over Aspen, C.O. 5
SKI TOWN

Even with all there is to do in town, so long as Aspen Mountain towers overhead it will be impossible to forget what really draws people here—the skiing. Each year, Jack Frost dumps loads of pristine snow on the area's four massive mountains, prompting skiers and boarders from the world over to start their migration to Aspen.

A Brief History

After the struggling community built its first crude ski lift in 1936, skiing quickly became Aspen's greatest commodity. In 1947, Aspen Mountain opened the world’s longest ski lift and in 1950, it became the first ski resort in America to host an international competition, the precursor of today’s World Cup races. Three more mountains were developed shortly after. Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands both opened in 1958 while Snowmass was established in 1968. Each hill lies within 12 mi (19 km) of town, and each contributes to Aspen’s reputation as America's best in skiing and winter sport.

Over 60 years after dedicating its first chairlift, Aspen/Snowmass continues to grow and deliver more goods each year. Between 2004 and 2007 alone, six new lifts and more than 200 acres (81 ha) of terrain were opened. The Elk Camp Meadows learning area was added in the 2007/2008 season along with the Snow Park Technologies terrain park and the Treehouse Kids' Adventure Center. With over $50 million in on-mountain improvements expected by 2010, it looks like conditions at Aspen should keep getting better and better—weather permitting.


PHOTOS COURTESY OF:
  1. Hal Williams; c/o Aspen Snowmass; Snow Falls on Downtown Aspen; Aspen, C.O., U.S.A.
  2. Michael Brands; c/o Aspen Snowmass; 39 Degrees at the Sky Hotel; Aspen, C.O., U.S.A.
  3. c/o WorldWeb.com; The Spectacular Maroon Bells; Aspen, C.O., U.S.A.
  4. Shazamm/ESPN ; c/o Aspen Snowmass; Big Air at the X Games; Aspen, C.O., U.S.A.
  5. Hal Williams; c/o Aspen Snowmass; Skiing Over Aspen, C.O.; Aspen, C.O., U.S.A.